Went down South Kaibab just to see how different it is from Bright Angel in this snow. Packed snow with some ice until Ooh Ah, then mud, then packed snow and ice until under Cedar Ridge, then ice under mud. We turned around because the mud was so ooshy and all we wanted was a little workout.

Quite a bit of sun on the trail, though,as befits the route planned as the winter access to Phantom Ranch. Talked to someone at Phantom two weeks ago who insisted that everyone hike out the Bright Angel, anytime, any season. I said I prefer the SK in winter (actually, at any time, but most people can't come out fast enough to beat the heat on SK in the warm season). He assured me when one heads out the BA, the River Trail is a nice warm-up. Sure, hike two miles, and you are all warmed up and at Pipe Creek Beach, poised to start up the Inner Gorge. Hike two miles on the South Kaibab, and you are on top of the Inner Gorge. And very warmed up indeed. This being the self same expert who knew everything about the Canyon, I didn't bother to argue. Let him go out the BA. It just means more solitude for moi.