First time I have been to Phantom since March, mostly because of the HEAT.  I had the chance for a cabin in August, but met with strong resistance from the other half.  Anyhow, I went down at 6 AM and took plenty of water so I could sit in the shade on the way down.  I knew that I could not check into the room until about 11:30, so why wait down there?

At Cedar a runner told me all he carries is Gu.  He said that the body only needs water to digest food, therefore without food, no one needs water.  Also, he never sweats while hiking the Canyon.  Perhaps because as soon as sweat hits the skin it EVAPORATES?

A new sign at Tim's Hut.  It appears as though one can now access the rainwater collected in the cisterns, which would be nice to wet down a shirt or some such.  However it must be a bit manky after sitting in the sun.  

Tim's Hut

The mules approach

Newly reopened silver bridge

The Big Shade

At The Big Shade ran into Rachael, who told me the Z's love my legos and the books I send them.  She said she and Brian talk about me all the time, and I suggested it was every time they stepped on a Lego.  

Once at the Ranch, there was a long line of rim to rim runners waiting for lemonade.  No beer sold, because their liquor license does not allow carry aways.  But no one was 6 feet apart. So I put my sticks akimbo, and people just stepped over them, saying, "ExCUSE me".  I said, "SIX feet". They would buy post cards and then stand there writing them so they did not have to stand in line again, and one kid wanted the wifi password and would not take no for an answer.  "I have to let my mother know I made it to the bottom safely."  Kid, she needs to know when you make it to the TOP safely.

Showers from 12-2 and 2-4 only so they can clean the showers in between, and we are to spray down with disinfectant before and after. I got in as soon as they unlocked so the showers would be nice and clean.  Dinners served in a big bag with the name on it and taken back to the cabin to eat, or at one of the tables in front.  The trash is given back, 

On the way out I thought I saw someone carrying a bagpipe.  Turned out to be a kayak paddle. which made much more sense.  There were so many hikers I put on my face shield as well as my mask, and when I stepped aside for a couple who were obviously not going to step aside for me, the lady said, in a sugar sweet voice usually reserved for three-year olds: "Oh, look, she has on a face shield".  I guess the Pandemic is over.  

One of my extra water bottles started leaking through the lid, so I hiked out with a wet butt.  I guess as a cooling system, it works better than relying on Gu. 

 

My agave just starting to bloom

Something ate it!

I have been watching an agave on the Hermit Trail waiting for it to bloom.  Since our acting Super opened the trails to locals, I scampered down to get a picture.  Something ate it.  Some animal came along and ATE my agave.  

It was a little spooky hiking down the Hermit all alone.  It is a rough enough trail that I was a wee bit nervous about turning an ankle all by my lonesome.  Then I explored the site at the trail junction looking for somewhere that they straightened arrows.  I saw a picture of this somewhere.  Anyhow, I found an old cowboy camp and some more walls, but no rock.  THEN I started thinking that since I was off trail, I might meet a rattler and then what would happen?  

On the way out I met two locals, and then two rangers, so I guess my broken body would not have been lying on the trail for too long before someone tripped over me. 

We went into lockdown three weeks ago.  We could walk and ride bikes on the rim, but not below.  On the 15th, the acting super said locals can hike all the trails except Bass, because you have to cross the Supai Rez, and they are still closed, Marble Canyon, and the North Rim.  So we ran down to see the Redbuds.  

Note to self:  mid March is too early.  Only a few trees had started.  Mid April is too late.  Most of the trees had lost their blossoms and started to leaf out.  The three just below the Redwall were perfect.  

In March we met 300 people on this hike.  Today we saw four locals and one ranger. 

I took the above pictures to demonstrate that people were not social distancing.  It was picked up by National Parks Traveler and went around the world.  I didn't get credit for it, though.  

Because of Covid 19, the hotels are closed, the entrance station, the VC, all shut down. As of today, the corridor trails are closed.

In March we spent four days at Phantom Ranch.  Because of the delay in warning everyone about the virus, we had semi-concerns about infection, but not seriously.  So we gaily passed dishes full of victuals up and down the tables, and talked with hikers from around the world.  Then we got out, hunkered down in the house, and waited for 14 days to see if we had been infected.  So far so good.

Phantom closed last week. The employees are locked away, probably thinking about all the days they were serving people, doing laundry for other people, cleaning the showers, etc.  There is a sign on the door essentially saying "Go away".  

We hiked down last Sunday to Indian Garden to see the Redbuds, thinking the hotels are closed so how many people can there be? 200, as a matter of fact.  And we were out of the Canyon by noon.  Whenever we passed anyone we stepped off the trail and faced away.  Everyone just jogged on by.  Some of them wanted to talk.  "How far to the river?"  "Go away and leave me alone," I grunted.  Then when we got to IG, a guy popped up and said, 

"Do I need a permit to camp here?"

"Of course."

"Well the driver of the Arizona shuttle told me that the Park was open and free, and no permits required, so we hiked down, and last night this rouge ranger appears and bawls us out."

"Which ranger?"

"She was wearing a mask."

Brad and I burst out laughing.  Ranger Betsy always wears a mask for sun protection (I have only seen her once without it) and she is a stickler for the regs.  

"I would listen to the LE ranger, because she is the one with the gun, badge, and citation book. And you should start hiking out so you get out before dark."

We explored the redbuds, and an hour later, he is still there,
Betsy is telling the guy to pack up and leave, and he is telling all the passing hikers that the shuttle driver told me he could stay, and who should he believe?

This group of kids kept passing us (closer than 6 feet) and cutting switchbacks and playing a radio.  They went to the River.  Do not know when they got out.  Social distancing?  Ha!