Brad in the ducky on the yampa. Before he took the adventure swim. |
The three kings pictograph outside of Vernal on private property |
Slim riding Bears Ears. |
Trail friend |
Long House at Mesa Verde |
How they got down the rocks at Chaco |
Super nova at Chaco. Notice the mud daubs. Apparently this is not uncommon at some sites, and they are original. |
Summer 2019. It is
said that the best way to spend money is on experiences rather than things, so
we signed on with a commercial river trip and a commercial bike trip. Let your guides do the planning, and the
shuttle, and the cooking, and the cleaning.
First a week on the Yampa with OARS. Dan, John, Izzy, Robin, and the geologist,
Elliot. We had been with Elliot two
years prior. There was another geology
trip a few days ahead of ours with Wayne Ranney. That would have been tempting, had I known,
but his trip was full, full (25) and ours only had 14, which was more
manageable.
The river was high, 20,000 CFS, which level we have not seen
the Colorado through the grand in a long time.
I rode through all the rapids with a minimum of whimpering. One of the peeps told us his river name is
Juanito. I told him my river name is
“cringes in the bottom of the boat and screams like a girl”.
One gentleman told me he wanted to go with Wayne, but the
trip was full. “Do you know Wayne?” “Yes, I work with Wayne.” Silence.
“When I was at the GC guide training seminar, do you know
GTS?”
“Yes, I often present at GTS”. Silence.
“When I was at the GC history symposium, do you know the
history symposium?” “Yes, I am on the
board, and I was in charge of the tours for the symposium.” Silence.
I guess the proper response would have been, “Gosh, no, tell me more.”
One day Holiday crowded us a bit. They beat us to the Mantle Cave, so we
climbed up some slick rock to another cave. Then their six boats took up the
whole beach at the scout for Warm Springs, and we barely got onto the
beach. Then a private trip showed up and
there was no room for them at all.
We could not hike up to Wagon Wheel because it was afternoon
when we got there. Well, Brad and I could
have, but one older guy was determined to go, and I am sure John did not want
him up there in the heat of the day, so he cut the hike short. If we had asked to go by ourselves, it would
have put John in the position of saying, “Yes, the two of you can go, but not
him”, and that would have been awkward for John.
Brad was in the Ducky day four and got washed into the
creek. They picked him up right away,
but lost the ducky. (We got it back when another OARS group downstream sent
their paddleboat to fetch it). A young
man was also washed out, but was wearing a “guide” PDF instead of a class III,
and was recalculated through the eddy for quite a ride. Dan had to run upstream and grab him with a
throw bag, because our boat could not break the eddy fence. Kept the ducky, lost the paddle. So we lost enough time that we could not hike
up Jones Hole.
Took an extra day in Vernal to visit Dinosaur and take a
walk with a ranger who has degrees in geology and anthropology. Then went out to a private ranch with some
impressive rock art. I am glad they
chose to protect it, but what happens if the kids don’t want the land
anymore?
Down to Moab for the bike trip with Western Spirit. Sean, Liz, and Willie. By far the most
professional guides we have been with yet.
On any trip. Stopped by the Edge
of the Cedars, which is a collection of pothunter goodies which were seized in
raids. So most of the pieces said,
“provenience unknown”. Depressing. Recognized some names from families at the
school. Hmm.
Then we rode through the reduced Bears Ears national
monument. I immediately wrote to my
congresspersons again to complain about this land being withdrawn from
protection and handed over to a CANADIAN uranium mining firm. I rode up all the hills, and down all but
one.
Two years ago we were on a WS trip when they built huge
bonfires every night, even in the State campground where the signs specifically
said no wood longer than 2 feet. They
were tearing down whole trees to set on fire.
As the High Priestess of Leave no Trace, I wrote a pretty stern note to
WS, and they answered that the guides did not want big fires, but one of the
kids on the trip kept bringing in trees.
I told them, one, that was disingenuous, and two, as guides we do not
allow people to do anything they want just because it would be fun.
On this trip we brought our own wood, and dismantled the
fire rings. A result of my
complaints? I would like to think
so. I wrote them a nice letter this
time. See, I can be polite.
Then to Canyons of the Ancients, which we had never heard of
until a friend moved up there to be superintendent. A lot of little side canyons around Cortez
with the highest concentration of sites anywhere. Lots of hikes, lots of unexcavated sites, and
lots of ways to get lost, since most of the trailheads are not even marked.
Mesa Verde then to tour Long House and Balcony House. The Long House tour was the best I have ever
been on. The ranger had a double masters
degree in Cultural Anthropology and History, and was able to answer all my
questions.
I recently had a discussion with a friend who claims that
rangers don't really need degrees. Their
time would be better spent just learning about the park they are in. But going on a tour with a highly, some would
say over, educated ranger makes all the difference. At least to someone, like me, who has some
background knowledge and wants to get deeper into things.
Since we were so far north, we spent two days in Chaco. Hiked to the Jackson steps (7 miles) and the supernova pictograph (6 miles).
So the first three weeks are done. Next up, North Rim, Bryce and Zion.
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