Have only been home one week out of the past six. I was only supposed to do one trip this fall, but things happen, and I have been on the trail most of the time.  Just got back from Supai, and the place is doing better.  The campground is still overcrowded, and the fact that several companies have permanent camps there doesn't help.  The campsite I found (after a 30 minute frantic search) turned out to be just right, except for the fact that the outhouse was closed, so we had to walk ten minutes each way to the other outhouse, or wade across the creek, not so useful at night.  First time I have ever seen racoons down there.  One of them had a gay old time trying to get into the rat sacks.  Or maybe he was just having a gay old time swinging back and forth on them.

Also two horses.  Wandering through camp in the middle of the night.

Also SOMETHING that squeaked, and then jumped, and then  knocked a bunch of rocks down, maybe a small animal that was eaten by a larger.  Or maybe the horse stepped on someone.

But I only picked up three bags of trash on the way out.  Last year it was ten.  The village elder who spoke with us decried the fact that he cannot swim in the creek barefoot because of all the broken glass from partying.  I thought: so you must know who is doing it.  Then I thought: yeah, but it is a very small town, and one does not necessarily want to tick off one's neighbors.

More rangers ranging, including one below Mooney who caught three illegal backpackers (hee, hee).

A tattooed harmonic convergence convention was meeting at Havasu Falls.  They were lean and tanned and bikinied, and our group were middle aged and up, in granny swimsuits with a certain amount of cellulite showing.  I thought:  bikini people, behold your future.