Got out of the corridor big time and hiked Bass to Hermit. When we did this hike two years ago we had to share every camp with a group of four guys, a group of three we suspected was an illegal guiding operation, and one illegal who bragged about never getting a permit. This time we were dogged by a group of six who pulled in every night just about dusk.

Going down the Bass worked fine, and there was plenty of water in the "secret" potholes. I say secret because we seem to be the only group that can find them. We loaded up with water there and camped just below. All other groups continued on to the Colorado River which was running brown and nasty.

The West Tonto is a come-and-go trail. Dr. D. and I were trying to remember if the trail was easier to find when the burros were there. Neither of us seem to remember losing it much, but one does tend to remember the past with rosy glasses and all. The burros also made parallel trails and fouled the water, so we don't miss them, but they may have kept the Tonto in better shape. It was easy to lose where it went in and out of canyons and where it crossed the plateaus.

There was water at each of the named canyon except Agate. Sometimes one had to search above the trail, sometimes below, but there was always something. Third night we loaded up with water at Turquoise and waited for our other group. Sure enough they got there about dusk, so we took our water out to the point and dry camped alone. Many mosquitoes, even so far from water.

Boucher was private. Two years ago there was a de-veg crew running around. This year we had a nice site, and a little family came in and moved upstream, and the big group seems to have collapsed as soon as they hit the water, which was about a half mile away from us.

We got to Hermit just in time to snag the best site: the flat one with the overhang. A guy asked if we were staying the night, and we said yes, so he went off to camp illegally on the west side of the creek. Admittedly, one of the three small group sites is pretty slanty, and only one site has shade, but one can sit by the creek until the sun gets low, after all. One does not have to camp illegally.

Wandered about the old Hermit Camp. Both Park Service caches have been broken into. Reported same to the PS when I got out. Bozos think they are doing something clever when they steal the food and water from the ranger caches. Or maybe they are just losers who can't stand leaving well enough alone.

Started out at 5 AM because Dr. D. had to get on the road early. A.B., I saw your name carved into the Redwall, and you now are the recipient of my special Canyon Curse. Every endeavor you attempt will result in woe until you come back and clean off the rock. So there.

Got out in 4 hours, 20 minutes, not bad for such a long trail with big steps. Passed a young couple at the top, and they whispered, "Gee, that old lady is in pretty good shape!". You bet your a**.